Italy: The Grand Tour

 

INTRODUCTION
HESTER LYNCH PIOZZI
LADY MARY
TOBIAS SMOLLETT
MORE NARRATIVES
DEBATES
BIBLIOGRAPHY
ITALY HOME PAGE
COSMOS HOME

 

Topics of Debate

The Great Cicisbeo Debate

Cicisbei were male escorts to married females, a practice that was quite common among the Italian aristocracy during the 18th century.  The custom of the Cicisbei came from Spain and was more relegated to Northern Italy.  He was not a lover, but attended the lady to her toilet in the morning, to social engagements, and to meals.  In Venice, the Cicisbeo was often written into the marriage contract as a friend or relation.  This tradition was to keep unwanted attention from married women.  This fascinating subject sparked many comments from British writers, sometimes condemning, at others, understanding. 

Tobias Smollett mentions the subject in his Travels.  He first comments on the "jealous" character of the Italian men, and questions how the natures of these men could have allowed the tradition of the cicisbei to begin.  He does not want to "judge" this custom, but merely looks in as an outsider.  He takes up the cause of the poor Italian husband who has no right or say in the relationship between his wife and the cicisbeo.

"I know it is generally supposed that the custom of choosing cicisbei, was calculated to prevent the extinction of families, which would otherwise often happen in consequence of marriages founded upon interest, without any mutual affection in the contracting parties.  How far this political consideration may have weighed against the jealous and vindictive temper of the Italians, I will not pretend to judge: but, certain it is, every married lady in this country has her cicisbeo, or servente, who attends her every where, and on all occasions; and upon whose privileges the husband dares not encroach, without incurring the censure and ridicule of the whole community." (Smollett 207)

Samuel Sharp takes a very cynical and contemptuous tone on the Cicisbeo debate.  His observations have led him back to the common perception that Italian women are lascivious in nature.  According to Sharp, every woman in Florence has three cicisbei, and one of them is her lover.  He gives a thorough account, almost as if he has spied on these interactions, of how the evening goes between the lady and her escort. 

"No woman can go into a public place, but in the company of a gentleman called here, a Cavaliere servente, and in other parts of Italy, a cicisbeo...it is usual for them to sit alone in the box, at the opera, or play-house, where they must be, in a manner, by themselves...After the opera, the lady, and her cavaliere servente retire to her casine, where they have a tête-à-tête for an hour or two, and then her visitors join them for the  rest of the evening...In Florence, the generality of ladies have each of them three cicisbeos; the first is the cicisbeo of dignity; the second is the cicisbeo who picks up the gloves, gives the fan, and pulls off, or puts on the cloak, etc., the third cicisbeo is, by the wags, deemed the substantial cicisbeo or lover.  (Pfister 264)

Hester Lynch Piozzi interviewed a young Italian woman on the question of her cicisbeo.  The woman proclaimed that it was an innocent relationship, based on the financial practicality of the arrangement.

"'I want money often, and this cavaliere servente pays the bills, and so the connection draws closer-that's all.'  And your husband! said I-'Oh, why he likes to see me well dressed; he is very good natured, and very charming; I love him to my heart.'" (Pfister 266)

The conclusion amongst these various thoughts and observations about the tradition of the cicisbei can be summed up as curiosity.  British travel writers seem very preoccupied with this custom, because it is so different from their own society.  Each writer took away their own ideas on this subject, and spread those observations back in Britain.

Protestants vs. Catholics

Amongst British authors, the customs of the Catholic Italians was also cause for great discussion, sometimes in awe, and at others in contempt.  For instance, British travelers felt the tradition of fasting on the holy days was ridiculous and inconvenient.  Tobias Smollett mentioned that, "On a meagre day...those ragamuffins will rather die of hunger than suffer the least morsel of flesh-meat to enter their mouths" (Smollett 207).  He later continues that murderers and adulterers will find more absolution from the church than a man who eats a pigeon on Saturday.  This lack of victuals becomes a problem for travelers like Smollett while staying at inns on the fast days.  Smollett comments that he "went to bed without supper" (Smollett 260), because of the lack of food.  Amongst the author's satiric wit is a real disrespect for the traditions of the Catholics, especially when it infringes on his own personal comfort. 

On the other hand, British authors highly regard the extravagant processions during the holy days.   Smollett, for one, goes on at length, describing the procession he witnesses in Florence.  It is awe that seems to permeated his words, as the great floats and costumes go past, in veneration to the Catholic religion.  In this particular scene, hundreds of virgins in gowns and veils are followed by a "mob" of penitents, which are then followed by a great image.

"...the great object was a figure of the Virgin Mary, as big as the life, standing within a gilt frame, dressed in a gold stuff, with a large hoop, a great quantity of false jewels, her face painted and patched, and her hair frizzled and curled in the very extremity of the fashion".  (Pfister 206))

There is the impression that Smollett thinks these goings on are a little too extreme for religious ritual. 

Gastronomy

Food was another preoccupation with the British travel writers.  Italy is the land of food, and the concept of food differs greatly from that in Britain.  Food traditions were enjoyed, for the most part, by the British tourists.  In fact, the consumption of food was promoted, because that is what one does in Italy.  Hester Lynch Piozzi noted that in Italy, the aristocracy was not afraid to finish several courses in a meal.  However, not all travelers found the food all that enticing.  This could stem from the fact that the food in the inns was not of the best quality.

Peter Beckford made some observations about the food he encountered in his travels. "...the roast meat being usually soaked in water before it is put to the fire, loses all its flavour" (Pfister 268).  He goes on to say that there are not the dishes one can find in Britain, like bubble and squeak, salted meats, peas-pudding, nor the fine dishes found in France.  So, Beckford's main complaint is that things are not the same as at home. 

Samuel Sharp goes even further in his disgust in the food and its preparation.  He hates Italian butter so much that he goes so far as to try to make his own butter and prove the Italians just do not have the ability to make a descent product.

"The bread all the way is exceedingly bad, and the butter so rancid, it cannot be touched, or even borne within the reach of our smell.  We procured, the other day, a pint of cream, and made a little extempore butter, which proved almost as good as any we eat in England, so that the fault seems to lie in the  manufacture, and not in the milk..." (Pfister 124).